Stitching machine



y 1951 F. A. REECE 2,555,095

STITCHING MACHINE Filed Dec. 28, I948 11 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. M Q IBY Mk, 3, Pan,

May 29, 1951 F. A; REECE STITCHING MACHINE 11 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec.28, 1948 y ,1 F. A. REECE" 2,555,095

STITCHING mourns Filed Dec. 2a. 1948 11 Sheets-Sheet s 11 Shets-Sheet 4F. A. REECE STITCHI-NG MACHINE Filed Dec. 28, 1948 May'29,1951 F. A.REECE STITCHI-NG MACHINE Filed Dec. 28 1948 11 Sheets-Sheet 5 May 29,1951 F. A. REECE s'rI'rcHINc umcnms l1 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed Dec. 28,1948 OMM mm Mm May 29, 1951 F. A. REECE STITCHING MACHINE Filed Dec. 28.1948 11 Sheeis-Sheet '7 May 29, 1951 REEE 2,555,095

STITCHING MACHINE Fild Dec. 28, 1948 11 Sheets-Sheet 9 May 29, 1951 F.A. REECE 2,555,095

STITCHING MACHINE Filed Dec. 28, 1948 1 Sheets-Sheet 1o I, 27.5- 24 26Ewen Z07:

May 29, 1951 REECE 2,555,095

STITCHING MACHINE Filed Dec. 28,1948 I 11 Sheets-Sheet 11 Patented May29, 1951 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 24 Claims. 1

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines.

While mechanically actuated machines for finishing buttonholes, eyelets,belt holes and other holes in fabric having stitched edges have operatedsatisfactorily they are necessarily complicated, and require many costlyparts among which are large cams. Many of the moving parts are driven atvery high speeds so that they must absorb severe stresses and shock andare subject to rapid wear. Such machines vibrate seriously and are noisyand expensive. There are limits of speed beyond which such machinescannot be driven, yet the industry requires even faster machines. Thepresent invention provides a simpler, quieter and more economicalbuttonhole sewing machine.

In making buttonholes, it is essential that uniformity of distancebetween the stitches be positively controlled. It is desirable that thedistance between the stitches be adjustable for stitch density to meetvarious requirements, for instance, different sizes and types ofbuttonholes and materials of various properties. It is often desirable,in order to preserve uniform distance between stitches and in some casesto vary it in a controlled manner, that the length of one or morecomponents of the stitching steps or the length of the steps themselvesbe automatically variable during the sewing of the buttonhole,particularly with respect to predetermined parts of the buttonhole. Toaccomplish all of these purposes it is necessary to have the machine soconstructed that the work is brought to a positive stop relative to thestitching mechanism after each stitching step during intermittent sewingfeed, that the intervals of distance at which such stops occur bepreadjustable for the entire buttonhole and also that the intervals ofdistance be variable automatically during the formation of thebuttonhole. Heretofore, so far as is known to me, no machine has beenconstructed which provides either adjustability or variability ofstitching with a positively controlled intermittent feed.

The present machine accordingly provides mechanism in which the feedsteps are of a positively predetermined length, the length of the feedsteps may be adjusted for the whole buttonhole and the length of thefeed steps or their components in direction may be varied as requiredautomatically during the progress of the sewing around the buttonhole.It also provides a machine which is adjustable to produce buttonholes ofvariable characteristics and shapes.

The machine illustrated is particularly adapted to make the eye-type ofbuttonhole, but machines embodying the invention may be used to makestraight buttonholes, fly-bar buttonholes and eyelets, and in fact anyholes in fabric or fabric-like material which have stitched edges.

In the machine embodying the present invention, operations such asclamping the work, cutting the buttonhole, feeding the stitchingmechanisms longitudinally and laterally relative to the work for sewingalong the edges of the buttonhole and around the eye thereof, androtation of the stitching mechanisms for sewing around the eye areactuated by fluid under pressure. In this way it is possible to do awaywith many parts, particularly the expensive cams, to make a much quieterand smoother operating machine to reduce the wear, and to accomplish theobjects mentioned above.

In the drawings which, with the description herein, are illustrative andnot intended to limit the scope of the invention;

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic analytical view of the general path of theneedle of the machine as it stitches a buttonhole.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view of the relationship between correspondingpaths of the needle shown in Fig. 1, and of one of the parts of themachine and of a pivot point between them.

Fig. 3 is a side elevational view of the machine and some of its parts.

Fig. 4 is a front elevational view of the machine.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the machine showing some of its parts.

Fig. 6 is a side elevational view similar to Fig. 3 showing some of theparts.

Fig. '7 is a plan view similar to Fig. 5 showing some of the parts.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged partial side elevational View partly in section.

Fig. 9 is a plan view taken along the lines 99 of Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is a side elevational view of one of the parts.

Fig. 11 is a sectional view taken along the lines l |ll of Fig. 10.

' Fig. 12 is an enlarged partial side elevational view showing detailsof some of the parts.

Fig. '13 is a plan view of Fig. 12.

Fig. 14 is a sectional view of one of the parts shown in Fig. 12.

Fig. 15 is a partial front elevational view of the machine showing someof its parts.

Fig. 16 is a detailed side elevational view of one of the parts.

Fig. 1'7 is an end view of Fig. 16.

Fig. 18 is a longitudinal view of a section taken along the lines I8I8of Fig. 17 and developed in a plane for convenience of illustration.

Fig. 19 is a side elevational broken away view partly in section showingthe details of a typical control switch.

Fig. 20 is a plan view of Fig. 19.

Fig. 21 is a schematic view showing two of the control switches ofFigures 19 and 20 in a typical solenoid control circuit.

Fig. 22 is a schematic view of the fluid pressure system and its parts.

Fig. 23 is a schematic view of the electric control circuit.

In the drawings Fig. 1 illustrates diagrammatically the stitching by themachine of the invention of a buttonhole indicated at I. The stitchingmechanisms to be described and represented by the axis of the needlemove longitudinally from home position A to an adjustable stitchingposition B where they commence to sew along a straight edge 2 to pointC. They then diverge at an angle to the first direction and sew from Cto D substantially in a straight line to commence the eye 4. At D thestitching mechanisms sew a circular portion DEF and thence move in asubstantially straight angular direction from F to C finishing the eye4. Then a second straight edge 3 is stitched as the stitching mechanismstravel from C to B where sewing ceases and the stitching mechanismsreturn from B to home position A. Figure 2 illustrates diagrammaticallythe corresponding motion of one of the parts I05 of the machine locatedat the opposite end of a pivot point IOI from the stitching mechanismsas it moves along a path RS I'UVWTSR similar in pattern but in anopposite direction to the needle path ABCDEFCBA, all of which will bedescribed in more detail.

The machine is mounted above and below a bed plate Ill which includes awork plate 9 upon which is placed the material in which a buttonhole isto be formed (Figs. 3-8 and 15) and an upper stitching mechanismgenerally indicated at II is supported in a forwardly extending upperhousing I2, and may be of the now well known type shown in patent toKiewicz No. 1,437,847 and patent to Reece No. 1,864,218. A needle I3reciprocates vertically through the work plate 9 and has a lateraljogging or vibrating motion normal to its path of feed or travel aroundthe edges of the buttonhole, for forming stitches by passing the threadback and forth over the edges of a buttonhole as is usual in this typeof machine. The housing I2 which supports the upper stitching mechanismI I is connected to a lower housing I4 which supports the lowerstitching mechanism I5 (Fig. 4), and both comprise a unit for supportingand enclosing the various parts of the machine which move relative tothe work and which is adapted to move relative to the work plate 9 onthe bed plate ID for forming a line of stitches along the edges andaround the eye of a buttonhole as will be further described. The lowerstitching mechanism I5 may be of the usual double oscillating loopertype shown in patent to Kiewicz No. 1,558,182. The upper and lowerstitching mechanisms I I and I5 are rotatable about a vertical axis andsupported in rotatable turrets I9 and 22, Fig. 3, in the usual manner asdescribed in the aforementioned patents, and are thus adapted to rotatefor stitching around the circular portion DEF of the buttonhole eye 4and to be positioned at one limit of rotation for stitching one edge. 2

of the buttonhole While feeding in one direction relative to the workand at the opposite limit of rotation for stitching the opposite edges 3while feeding in the other direction, Figs. 1 and 2. The stitchingmechanisms II and I5 are cooperatively driven from a belt pulley 20which is drivingly connected to any suitable power source such as anelectric motor I6 (Fig. 23) through the usual clutch and stop mechanismindicated at 2| (Figs. 3, 4 and 5), of the type shown in patent to HillNo. 713,764 and patent to Reece No. 1,669,912 in the manner described insaid patents. The clutch and stop mechanism 2| is operated by anadjustably positioned cam 3I on the bed plate I!) to engage the pulley20 for driving the stitching mechanisms II and I5 when the needle I3reaches adjustable position B to start stitching the buttonhole I, andit is operated by a cam 32 on the bed plate II) to disengage the pulley20 and to stop stitching when the needle again reaches position B as itreturns to home position A. The stitching mechanisms II and I5 includethe usual thread handling means shown in the above mentioned patents,and the upper and lower stitching mechanism turrets I9 and 22 arecooperatively rotated by the usual upper and lower segmental gears 23and 24 which are fast relative to each other and rotate together about avertical shaft 25.

The machine has a work clamp indicated at 26 (Figs. 3 and 4), which maybe locked in clamped position upon material on the work plate 9 orretracted through a toggle linkage indicated at 21, and which in some ofits parts is similar to the Work clamp shown in the patents to KiewiczNo. 1,841,133 and Hill No. 713,764.

A buttonhole cutter 30 (Figs. 3 and 6) is similar in function to thatshown in patent to Reece No. 240,546 and its operation may be timed inthe operative cycle of the machine to mak it a so-called out before orout after machine.

A hydraulic or fluid pressure operated motor comprising a cylinder andpiston and indicated at 40 (Figs. 3, 5, 8, 9 and 22) is connected tofeed the upper and lower stitching mechanisms I I and I5 and cause themto travel longitudinally of the machine relative to work held by thework clamp 26 on the work plate 9 to form stitches along the edges ofthe buttonhole. A similar fluid pressure operated motor (Figs. 3, 5, 8,9 and 22) feeds the stitching mechanisms in a lateral directioncooperatively with the longitudinal feed and in a resultant path forstitching around the eye 4 of the buttonhole along the path CDEFC (Fig.1). Another fluid pressure operated motor operates the work clamp 26through the linkage 21 and a fluid pressure operated motor 10 rotatesthe turrets I9 and 22 of the stitching mechanisms to rotate them so thatthe direction of vibration or jogging of the needle I3 remains normal toits direction of feed while the machine is stitching around the circularportion DEF of the eye 4 of the buttonhole and to position them forstitching the remaining portion FCB including the edge 3 thereof in thereturn direction. The cutter 20 is operated by a vertically positionedfluid pressure operated motor 80. A fluid pressure system connects allof the fluid pressure operated motors to a fluid pressure pump I! (Fig.22) and a sump IB supplying the pump and to which exhausted fluid isreturned.

Longitudinal feed Referring to Figs. 1, 3, 5, 8, 9 and 22 the stitchingmechanisms II and I5 are moved or fed back and forth lengthwise of themachine or longitudinally relative to the buttonhole. being formed tosew along its edges by fluid pressure to the fluid pressure operatedmotor 40 in either end of its cylinder 4| against a piston 49 thereinconnected to piston rod 42. The fluid enters the cylinder ti through afluid connection 43 and exhausts through a fluid connection 44 while thestitching mechanisms II and I5 are being fed in one direction, and thecourse of the fluid is reversed for feed in the opposite direction. Thepiston rod 42 is supported'in a bracket 45 which is attached to the bedplate It and it is connected to .a block 46 pivoted to 'a sliding block41, which is slidable relative to the lower housing I4 in a lateraldirection or normal to the direction of longitudinal feed in a slideway38 (Fig. 8).

The unit comprising the upper and lower housings I2 and I4 is mountedslidable in any direction, except as it is guided to move relative tothe bed plate I0, by any convenient means. It is guided by a block Ipivoted in the bed plate at IOI (Figs. 2, and 8). The housing I2 isslidable relative to the block I00 which rides in a slideway I03 on itsunderside. On the rear end of the housing I2 is fixedly mounted a camroll I05 to slide in a groove I06 between a pair of cam plates I0! andI08 (Figs. 2, 5, 7 and 8) For the length of the groove I06, therefore,the unit comprising the upper and lower housings I2 and I4 can be movedrelative to the bed plate I0 longitudinally only in a straight line asguided by the block I00 and the groove I00 during which time thestitching mechanisms II and I5 are moved from home position A tostitching position B, then from B to C and then back from C to A aftertraversing around the buttonhole eye 4.

As heretofore mentioned, Fig. 2 shows the relationship between thegeneral path A, B, C', D, E, F, C, B, A of the needle I3 or its axis(discounting its jogging motion) as it sews around the outline of thebuttonhole I, the pivot IOI of the unit comprising the housings I2 andI4 which support the stitching mechanisms II and I5, and the pathRSTUVWTSR of the cam roll I05 at the rear of the unit as it first movesin the groove I05 between the cam plates I01 and I08 and then leaves thegroove I05 to traverse the pattern TWVUT corresponding to the buttonholeeye 4, and then re-enters the groove I00 to return to its home positionS corresponding to the home position A of the needle I3. The unit of thehousings I2 and I5 first moves in direct longitudinal feed before sewingcommences to traverse the needle I3 from home position A to point B.Whereupon the stop mechanism and clutch 2I is actuated as described inthe usual manner to engage the pulley 20 to drive the stitchingmechanisms II and I5 whereupon sewing commences and continues until theneedle I3 has traversed around the buttonhole and returned again pastposition B at which point sewing ceases on its way back to home positionA.

The traverse by the needle I3 of the eye portion 4 of the buttonhole Iis a resultant of both longitudinal and lateral feed.

Lateral feed When the stitching mechanisms II and I5 are fed towards therear of the machine until the cam roll I05 leaves the groove I03 atposition T it will be apparent that the unit comprising the housings I2and I4 can now be moved pivotally about the pivot Iiil as well as in alongitudinal direction if a lateral movement is imparted to one end ofthe unit. A predetermined combination of simul taneous longitudinal andlateral feed. will result in the travel CDEFC of the axis of the needleI3 necessary to sew around the eye of the buttonhole. For such purpose,the lateral fluid pressure operated motor 50 is adapted to move the unitpivotally or in a lateral direction while the latter is also being movedin a longitudinal direction.

Still referring to Figs. 3, 5, 8, 9 and 22, the fluid motor 50 has apiston 59 connected to a piston rod 5I, one end of which is fixed to ablock 52 pivoted to a sliding block 53 which is slidable relatively in alongitudinal direction in a slideway 54 in the lower housing I4. Thefluid motor 50, piston rod 5|, and the blocks 52 and 53 are fixed in alongitudinal direction relative to the bed plate I0, but the unitcomprising the housings I2 and It may travel longitudinally relative tothe lateral feed motor 50 and its parts because the block 53 is slidablein the slideway 55 relative to the unit. Fluid enters one end of themotor 50 and exhausts on the opposite side of the piston 50 therein bymeans of the fluid connections 56 and 51 (Figs. 5, 9 and 22) andreversal of the direction of fluid flow through these connectionsreverses the direction of lateral feed.

Work clamp Some of the operative parts of the work clamp 25 are of theusual type and the clamp is connected to its operative toggle linkage 21in the usual manner Fig. 3 according to the aforementioned patents toHill No. 713,764, and Kiewicz No. 1,841,133. The toggle linkage 21!includes the usual lower link 28 which is operatively connected to theupper lever 64 and to the lower portion 29 of the usual yoke 35 which ispivoted at 3B and has the usual hooks 31 for engaging the clamp 26.

The fluid pressure operated motor 60 for the work clamp 26 has a piston68 (Fig. 22), connected to a piston rod 62 which is supported in abracket 03 attached to the bed plate I0. The piston rod 52 isoperatively connected to the upper toggle lever 64 as by a pin 65 (Fig.3). Fluid pressure entering one and exhausting from the other of the twofluid connections 66 and 61 is operative to move the piston rod 62 tothe right which moves the clamp 25 down once during the operative cycleof the machine to secure the material in which a buttonhole is to beformed. Reversal of fluid pressure flow unclamps the material.

Cutter The buttonhole cutter 30 (Figs. 3 and. 6) is actuated once duringthe operative cycle of the machine by the fluid pressure operated motorthrough a piston 09 (Fig. 22) connected to a piston rod BI and thence tothe cutter 30 through a bell crank lever 82 and a link 03. The bellcrank arm 82 is pivoted to a bracket under the bed plate I0 at 84 andits upper arm and the link 83 forms a toggle. The upper end of the link83 is pivoted at 85 to one end of the cutter lever 30 which is itselfpivoted at 86. Fluid pressure is reversibly introduced and exhausted inthe cylinder 80 through the fluid connections 01 and 88.

Turret drive Referring to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 12, 13 and 22 the upper andlower turrets I9 and 22 for rotating the stitching mechanisms II and I5are rotated by the fluid motor i0 through a piston I8, connected to apiston rod I2 and a rack I3 which engages the gearv 24. The rack 13 issupported in a bracket It on the lower housing I4. Fluid pressure isintroduced and exhausted in the motor "I through the fluid connections Iand "I0. The fluid motor I0 is supported to travel with the housing I4by a bracket I9.

Fluid pressure controlgeneral In the buttonhole I illustrated in Fig. 1the stitching steps or resulting increments of feed of the stitchingmechanism along the edges of the buttonhole are represented by the lines5 and the distances between these lines represent the amounts by whichthe stitching mechanisms are moved between stitches, the distances beingexaggerated in the figure for purposes of simplicity and clarity.

In the straight portions 2 and 3 of the buttonhole between B and C, thedistances between the lines 5 are equal to the steps in the incrementsof longitudinal feed and to each other. In these portions there is nolateral feed component. In the eye 4 of the buttonhole including all ofits portions to the right of C, the lines 5 represent increments of thecomponents of longitudinal feed and the lines I represent increments ofthe components of lateral feed which produce the resultant steps 5.

It will thus be seen that in the substantially straight portions of theeye I, that is from C to D and from F to C, the distances between thestitching increments 5 or length of stitching steps are the resultantsof the longitudinal feed component increments 0 and of the lateral feedcomponent increments I and that they are also equal to each other orconstant since in these eye portions (0-D and FC) the lengths of ordistances between the longitudinal components 6 are equivalent orconstant and the same is true of the lateral components I. The stitchingincrements 5 in these portions CD and FC are therefore slightly largerthan the increments 5 in the straight portions 2 and 3 (BC) because eachis the hypotenuse of a triangle formed by itself 5, a longitudinalcomponent 6 and lateral component I.

In the circular portion DEF of the eye 4, the

stitching increments 5 or length of stitching steps are arbitrarilypredetermined as constantly equivalent and for convenience at anincrement whose length or step is equal to that in the portions CD andFC. It will then be seen that as the stitching mechanisms progress fromD to E, the longitudinal increments 6, must decrease approaching point Eand that the lateral in crements "I, starting at a minimum at point D,

must increase and reach a maximum at point E and then decrease to reachtheir minimum again at point F. As the stitching mechanisms returntoward home position A from point F, the longitudinal and lateralcomponents again become constant, the lateral components ceasing atpoint C. and until sewing ceases at B.

Provision is made for controlling the flow of fluid in the machineautomatically for determining the direction of longitudinal and lateralfeed of the stitching mechanisms II and I5, for imparting to them a stepby step or intermittent stitching feed and for progressively varying thelength of the longitudinal and lateral component increments or steps asnecessary to produce the constantly equivalent resultant increments 5.

The direction of movement of the fluid pressure operated motors in themachine is controlled so that they operate in timed sequential relationto perform their functions in the operative cycle of the machine by aseries of solenoid operated valves controlling the direction of flow offluid pressure to them through fluid pressure lines from the pump I1 andthe solenoids of the latter valves are in turn controlled by anelectrical system including limit switches which are mechanicallyactuated in timed succession as the operative cycle progresses.

An intermittent flow of fluid to the longitudinal and lateral feedmotors 40 and 50 and to the turret rotating motor I0 is imparted by anintermittently opening cut-off valve I30 (Figs. 5, 7, 10, 11 and 22) toprovide the step by step or intermittent feed for the stitchingmechanisms II and I5 during sewing, and the valve I30 is otherwisenormally open during straight longitudinal feed of the stitchingmechanisms II and I5 from home position A to B where sewing commencesand during their return from B to home position A after sewing ceases aswill be further described. The cut-oil valve I30 controls the amount offluid exhausted from the motors 40 and 50 as well as the amount admittedto them for each stitching step so that the motors cannot over-run ormove by inertia further than they have been moved by pressure, thusproviding a positively controlled intermittent stitching feed.

A pair of metering valves I50 and I (Figs. 3, 4, 5, l2, l3, l4 and 22)automatically vary the length of the successive intermittent steps 6 andl of both longitudinal and lateral feed to produce the desired resultanttravel of the needle I3 during each resultant step 5 around the circularportion DEF of the buttonhole eye. These metering valves are responsiveto the motion of the rack I3 produced by the fluid motor I0 as will befurther described.

A manually pre-adjusted needle or metering valve I'I0 (Fig. 22) isprovided in the exhaust line between the intermittent valve I30 and thesump I8 by which the length of all the stitching steps 6 and 'I and,therefore, the stitch density may be predetermined.

A. Solenoid operated reversing valves Each fluid motor has acorresponding solenoid operated valve which in one position allows fluidto drive its piston in one direction and in the other position allowsthe direction of fluid flow to be reversed to drive the piston in theopposite direction. A typical solenoid operated control valve isillustrated in Figs. 16, 1'7 and 18 at IIO. It has four fluidconnections III, H2, H3 and H4 respectively entering a chamber II5 theopposite ends of which are interconnected by a passage HE. A valveplunger I20 in the chamber H5 is normally urged in one direction by aspring I2I and. its is connected by a shaft I22 to the typical solenoidI23 so that when the solenoid is deenergized the valve plunger I20 is inthe position shown to the right as in Fig. 18 and when the solenoid isenergized the plunger I20 moves to the left. In its position to theright the connections III and H4 are interconnected and the connections[I3 and H2 are interconnected. When the solenoid is energized to movethe plunger I20 to the left the connections III and H3 areinterconnected and the connections H2 and H4 are interconnected.

The relative locations of the solenoids and valves on the machine whichcontrol the direction of flow of fluid to the various fluid motors isshown in Figs.6 '7 and 15 (see also Fig. 22) as follows: A solenoidoperated valve 200 asso- .-.ciated with the clamping fluid motor 60 isconhected to the bed plate was by a bracket 2! and has fluid connections202, 203, 204 and 205 and an operating solenoid 206 and it is connectedto control the direction of flow in the clamping fluid motor 60. A valve2Il] controlling the flow of fluid through the cutting cylinder 80 isat-'- tached to the bed plate conveniently by a bracket 2 and has fluidconnections ZIZ, 2I3, 2H! and 2 I5. The valve 2I0 is operated by asolenoid 2 I6. The longitudinal feed cylinder 40 is controlled by thesolenoid operated valve 22@ attached to the bed plate It having thefluid connections 221, 222, 223 and 224 and an operating solenoid 225.The lateral feed fluid motor 55 is controlled by a valve 230 (Fig. 'l)which has fluid connections 23I, 232, 233, 234 and is operated by asolenoid 235. A valve 240 controls rotation of the turrets I9 and 22 ofthe upper and lower stitching mechanis'ms II and I and has connections2M, 242, 243 and 244 and it is operated by a solenoid 245.

B. Intermittent cut-017= valve When the intermittent stitching feedcut-off valve I30 (Figs. 4, 5, '7, 10, 11 and 22) is opera-' tive fordirect feed except during sewing, that is from A to B and from B to A.it remains open in the position shown in Figs. and 22 allowing fluidunder pressure to flow uninterruptedly to operate the longitudinal andlateral feed fluid motors 45' and 5E} and the turret motor '10 and to'allow exhaust fluid from them to return to the sump l8'. It is mountedon the housing I2 and it has a rotor IBI- which is drivingly connectedthrough the stitching mechanism drive in any convenient manner to thepulley 20' by way of the clutch and stop mechanism 2| so that it rotatesfor intermittent operation when the stitching' mechanisms Ii and I5 arein operation andin time with them. The valve I39 has fluid connectionsI33, I34, I35 and I35 respectively. Its rotor l3I has two right anglepassages I45 and MI respectively which are offset from each other andnot interconnected so that when the rotor [3! is in the position shownthe fluid connections I33 and I34 are interconnected and the connectionsI35 and I35 are interconnected. In certain positions of the'rot'or H I"no fluid either pressure or exhaust can flow through the valve i311.When the rotor" IiiI is driven by the pulley 20. fluid flowsintermittently between the passages I3'3ai1'd I34 for pressure and I35and I35 for exhaust respectively as the respective passages I40 and IAI'ar-e positioned opposite them, and a timed step by step or intermittentstitching feed is imparted to" the stitching mechanisms I! and I5. Asfluid under pressure passes between the passages I33 and I34, an equalamount of exhaust fluid passes between the passages I55 and I35 allowingthe motors" being driven to move under ressure a predetermined amountand no more. When pres sure is cutoff, exhaust is cut off also, time providin'g a positively controlled step by step' feed 10 same for allspeeds of operation of the machine for any chosen stitch densityadjustment of the needle valve Ill} and no overrunning of the drivenpart occurs which would otherwise make the density uncontrollablyvariable.

0. Longitudinal and lateral feed metering valves In order to produce thecircular travel DEF of the needle I3 around the eye 4 of the buttonholeI being sewn during the intermittent stitching feed, it has beenpreviously indicated that it is necessary to vary the flow of fluidthrough the longitudinal feed fluid. motor 45 and th late'ra-l feedfluid motor 59 in order to produce the longitii'diiial and lateralincrements 6 and l of varying lengths, Fig. 1;

For this purpose the longitudinal feed metering valve I56 (Figs. 3, l,5, 12, 13, 14 and 22) is mounted as by a bracket I5! under the lowerhousing It. It has a rotor I52 with a passage therein I53interconnecting two fluid connections I54 and l55 by which the valve isplaced in the fluid pressure line from the'pur'np IT to the longitudinalfeed motor til when the valve I50 is normally open as shown in Fig. 12.The rotor I52 is fast on a shaft I55 to which is attached an arm I51outside of the valve I52 witha cam roll I58 on its end which rides on acam E59 mounted on the turret actuating rack '53 A spring I55 holds thecam roll I58 against the surface of the cam I59. When the low portion ofthe cam I59 is under the roll I53 the valve 5 3 is wide open and whenthe high point of the cam I59 is under the roll I5 8 the valve I56 ispartially closed between the fluid connections I54, I55. Movement of thecam I59 under the roll I53 progressively closes the valve I52: anddiminishes the increment of the longitudinal components of feed 5(Fig. 1) as the needle approaches from D to E, and opens the valve toincrease them again as the needle moves away from E toward F. V

A similar metering valve led in the fluid pressure line to the lateralfeed motor 50- is mounted under the lower housing I 4 as by the bracketI5I. It has a rotor I82 with a passage I83 which is normally positionedso that a relatively small amount of fluid under pressure can pass between the fluid connections I35 and IE5 through the valve I-flil'. Therotor I82 is mounted on a shaft I3 6" which has fast on its outside endan arm I81 with a cam roll I88 onits end riding on a-cam I22 attached tothe underside of the rack l3. When the roll'ISE, which is pressedagainst the cam led by a spring Illl, is on the low part of the cam I96the valve I88 is normally partially closed and when the cam'r'olljl fiis on the high point of the cam I92 the valve I 88 is wide open. Fig. 1ashows the normal position of the rotor I82 in the valve I80, Movement orthe cam Iht under the roll Ietprogressiy'ely opens the valve I82 andincreases the increments of the lateral components of feed 'i (Fig. l)as the needle approaches E from D' and closes the valve againto decreasethem as'the needle moves away from E toward F.

D; Electric solenoid control switches and circuits Referring toF ig's.s, 7, 19.21), 21 maize; each of the solenoids 255, 2K5, 225, 235and 2 45for operating the fluid control valves 2%, 210; 220, 250 and 242respectively is energized and deenergized succes'sively' by each of apair of'limit switches which are so connected in the electrical'circuit(Figs. 21 and 23) that when one switch ofa pair is actuated the solenoidis'always 11' energized and when the other switch of a pair is actuatedthe same solenoid is always deenergized, thus positioning the respectivevalves to control the direction of fluid flow into the various fluidmotors 40, 56, 60, 1D and 89 in timed sequential relation according tothe requirements of the operative cycle of the machine. The limitswitches for accomplishing the aforementioned purposes are all identicalin structure and a typical switch is generally indicated at 266 and 268ain Figs. 19, and 21.

Such a switch 266 has an actuating spring arm 261 which yieldably holdsitself in the position shown and has a contact roll 262 where amechanical force may be applied to move the arm downwardly as viewed inFig. 19. Pivotally attached to the arm 261 and yieldingly maintained bysprings in a straight up and down position is a pawl 263 adapted toinsert itself alternately in each of a pair of notches 264 and 265 in anoscillatable ratchet 266 pivoted at 266a. The ratchet 266 has a tongue261 fitting in a yoke 266 which is urged upwardly against it by a spring269 pressing against the lower arm 210 of a pair of oscillatableelectric contact switch knives 2'11 and 212 pivoted at 213. The switch266 has four fixed terminal contacts 214, 215, 2'16 and 211,respectively, which are selectively engaged by the switch knives 211 and212 to establish electric contact across them. The contacts 214 and 216are permanently interconnected by an electric conductor 218. When theknives 2'11 and 212 are in the position shown in Fig. 19, the knife 21!interconnects the terminal contacts 214 and 215 and the knife 212 isopen, that is, not in any electric contact. When the arm 261 is actuateddownwardly, the pawl 263 pressing in the notch 264 rotates the ratchet266 clockwise as viewed, throws the tongue 261 and top of the yoke 268to the left against the spring 269 and the lower arm 219 is thrown in atoggling action to the right thus oscillating the knives 211 and 212 ina counterclockwise direction to the dotted line position. The knife 211breaks its contact with the fixed terminal contacts 214 and 215 and theknife 212 makes contact with and interconnects the fixed terminalcontacts 216 and 211. When the actuating force is withdrawn from the arm261 it springs back, withdrawing the pawl 263 from the notch 264. Theratchet 266 has been moved to the right or clockwise so that the notch265 is now presented to the pawl 263. Therefore, when the arm 261 isagain actuated, the pawl enters the notch 265, moves the ratchet 266counterclockwise and back to its original position as shown, andreverses the movement of the knives 211 and 212 to their originalposition as shown in Fig. 19.

A typical circuit including the typical solenoid 123 and a pair oftypical control switches 260 and 2613a for controlling it is shown inFig. 21. One power line 386 of a suitable electric power source isconnected in series through the solenoid 123 to the terminal 216a of theswitch 2613a. The other power line 381 is connected to the terminal 216of the switch 260. The terminals 215 and 215a and 211 and 2110. arerespectively interconnected. Assuming that the switch 260 is used toenergize the solenoid 123 and the switch 260a is used to deenergize it,when the solenoid is deenergized the switches 266 and 266a are in suchcondition with respect to each other that if the terminals 214 and 215are interconnected, then the terminals 214a and 215a are open ordisconnected (or vice versa). In this condition of the switches 26!] and266a, then, the terminals 216 and 211 are open or disconnected and theterminals 216a and 211a are connected (or vice versa). Then, when thearm 261 of the switch 260 is operated to energize the solenoid 123, theterminals 216 and 211 become interconnected and an energizing circuit isestablished through the solenoid 123 between the power lines 380 and 381through the terminals 216, 211, 21111 and 216a all of which areinterconnected, the others being open. When the arm 261a of the switch269a is operated to deenergize the solenoid 123 the circuit is brokenacross the terminals 216a and 211a and the terminals 214a and 216abecome interconnected and ready for the next energization of thesolenoid 123 when the switch arm 261 is again operated to interconnectthe terminals 2'14 and 215 which were disconnected when the arm 261 wasfirst operated. A

The limit switches 260 and 260a and their circuit as described andillustrated in Figs. 19, 20 and 21 are typical of all of the followingparticularly described control switches and solenoid circuits in themachine and which are illus trated in Figs. 6, '1 and 23.

A limit switch 288 is adapted to operate the work clamp 26 by energizingits solenoid 206 and is mounted under the bed plate 10 so that its arm281 is conveniently engaged by the lower end of a starting handle 282pivotally mounted for manual operation above the bed plate 16. When thestarting handle 282 is depressed by the operator the operative cyclecommences. A limit switch 298 attached under the bed plate 16 is pairedwith the switch 280 and is operative to deenergize the solenoid 286 andrelease the work clamp 26 at the end of the operative cycle of themachine when the stitching mechanisms 11 and 15 return to their homeposition. It has an arm 291 which is actuated by an adjustablypositioned plate 292 carried on the lower housing 14. When the plate 292engages the arm 291 the clamping solenoid 2116 is deenergized.

As previously stated, the machine illustrated is a so-called cut beforemachine in which the cutter 30 functions to cut a hole for thebuttonhole in the material immediately after the work is clamped in themachine and before stitching of the buttonhole commences. Byrearrangement of the timing of the operation of the control switches themachine can also be made to function as a out after machine in which thecutter 30 operates after the buttonhole has been stitched.

A limit switch 309 for energizing the cutter solenoid 216 and operatingthe cutter 30 and attached under the bed plate 10 has an arm 301 whichis engaged by a cam 302 attached to the clamping yoke 35 and which moveswith it downwardly when the work clamp 26 is operated at the beginningof the operative cycle and at the end of the operative stroke of thework clamp piston 62. The solenoid 216 is deenergized to retract thecutter 36 at the end of the latters operative stroke by a limit switch318, paired with the switch 300 and having an arm 311 engaged by a shoe312 attached to the bell crank arm 62 in the cutter mechanism linkageand so positioned that the arm 311 is engaged to deenergize the cuttingsolenoid 216 at the instant the operative stroke of the cutter 36 iscompleted.

The solenoid 225 is energized to commence longitudinal feed of thestitching mechanisms H and I by the actuation of a switch 320 which hasan arm 32| engaged by a cam 322 attached to the bell crank arm 82 in thecutter linkage. The cam 322 engages the arm 32l upon the return of thecutter 33 to its inoperative position. The longitudinal feed solenoid225 is deenergized when the need reaches position E to return thestitching mechanisms H and I5 to their home position A by a switch 339paired with the switch 322 and attached by a bracket 33! to the top ofthe bed plate [ii at its rear. The switch 332 has an arm 332 which isengaged when the needle reaches E by an adjustably mounted set screw 333mounted on the rear end of the upper housing l2.

It will be recalled that the lateral feed motor piston 59 is continuallyurged by fluid pressure upwardly or in the direction of the arrow (Fig.22) while the lateral feed solenoid 235 is deenergized but that nolateral movement takes place until the cam roll I35 leaves the grooveH36 when lateral movement commences as the needle moves from C to D.

The lateral feed solenoid 235 is energized to reverse the direction oflateral feed when the needle reaches D by a limit switch 34% mounted onthe top of the bed plate is and having an arm 3 which is engaged by anadjustably mounted set screw 342 on the rear of the upper housing 12.The solenoid 235 is deenergized to reverse the direction of lateral feedin the other direction when the needle reaches F to return the guideroll I05 to its groove i536 during the last stage F--C or WT ofsewingthe eye 2 by a limit switch 356 on top of the bed plate It pairedwith the switch 3&2 and which has an arm 35! operatively engaged by aset screw 352 adjustably mounted on the moving housing l2.

The solenoid 225 for actuating the turrets l9 and 22 of the stitchingmechanisms H and E5 to rotate them for sewing around the circular eyeportion DEF is energized by a limit switch 360 on the rear of the bedplate iii which has an arm 36! engaged by a set screw 382 when theneedle reaches D. The stitching mechanism turrets l9 and 22 areprogressively reversed by intermittent steps timed with the stitchingsteps as the machine sews around the portion DEF and remain in fullreverse position thereafter during the return of the stitchingmechanisms to their home position A. The solenoid 245 is thendeenergized to reverse and reposition the stitching turrets for a newcycle by a limit switch 318 under the bed plate Hi near the front of themachine and paired with the switch 2%. The switch 319 has an arm Ellwhich is engaged by the bracket 292 which also actuates the switch 29sfor releasing the work clamp 28.

The various solenoid control switches are connected in pairs asillustrated in Fig. 23 and similarly to the pair of typical solenoidenergizing and deenergizing switches 26% and 2 3cc heretofore describedin detail and shown in Figs. 19, and 21. Each solenoid is connected inseries with its respective pair of control switches across the mainpower lines 386 and 38L and the solenoid circuits are in parallel withrespect to each other. Thus, referring to Fig. 23, the clamping solenoid2% is connected at 261 with the line 380 and at 228 through itsenergizing and deenergizing switches 280 and 2953 with the power line38!. The cutting solenoid 2H5 is connected at 2I'l with the line 382 andat 2l8 through its control switches 30!] and 3m with the line 38L Thelongitudinal feed solenoid 225 is connected at 226 with the line 382 andat 221 through its control switches 32B and 330 with the line 32!. Thelateral feed solenoid 235 is connected at 236 with the line 380 and at231 through its control switches 3 1-2 and 352 with the line 38!. Theturret control solenoid 2&5 is connected at 246 with the line 333 and at2517 through its control switches 36! and 310 with the line 38!.

Fluid pressure system The fluid pressure system and its branchessupplying fluid under pressure to the various fluid pressure motors isbest illustrated in Fig. 22. Fluid pressure is generated by the pump llwhich in turn may be driven'irom the drive motor [6. The pump H ispreferably a constant pressure pump with a fluid supply from and exhaustto the sump [8.

When the pump H is running, fluid pressure flows to the connection 292in the solenoid operated clamping valve 200. When the solenoid 206 isenergized the connections 202 and 295 are interconnected in the valve266 allowing fluid pressure to the left side of the piston 68 to move.it to the right to move the work clamp 26 to the: clamping position andfluid is exhausted from. the right hand side to the connections 2-04and.

263 and thence back to the sump. When its operating solenoid 2% isdeenergized the connections 202 and 204 are interonnected to allowpressure to the right side of the piston 6-8 as shown in the figure,moving it to the left for unclamping position. Fluid is exhausted fromthe left side of the piston 88 through the connection 285 to theconnection 263 in the valve 200 and thence back to the sump i8.

Fluid pressure is supplied to the solenoid operated cutter valve 210controlling the flow of fluid to the cutter cylinder til at theconnection 2|2. When the cutter solenoid 2E6 is energized fluid flowsthrough the valve 219 from the connection 2l2 to the connection 2I5 andthence to the left side of the piston 89 in the position shown to moveit to the right to operate the cutter 30. Fluid is exhausted from theright hand side of the piston 89 through the connections 2M and 2l3 tothe sump l8. When the solenoid 2H; is deenergized fluid pressure flowsfrom the pump H between the connections 2l2 and 2M to the right handside of the piston 89 to move it to the left to" retract the cutter 3dand is exhausted through the connections 2H5 and 2 63 back to the sumpI8.

For longitudinal feed fluid pressure is supplied by the pump l'l'through the valve 532' and through the metering valve 252 between itsconnections I52 and 155 and thence to the intake connection 22! of thesolenoid operated longitudinal feed control valve 22!] for controllingdirection of the fluid flow to the longitudinal feed motor 42. When thelongitudinal feed control solenoid 225 is energized, fluid pressureflows across the connections 22E and 222 to the left side of the piston49 to move it to the right, feeding the stitching mechanisms H and !5toward the rear of the machine. Fluid exhausts from the right side ofthe piston 49, across the connections 223 and 222' and back to the sumpthrough the valves I30 and H0. When the longitudinal feed solenoid 225is deenergized fluid pressure flows across the connections 22| and 223to the right of the .piston 49 to move it to it the left which feeds thestitching mechanisms H and I back toward their home position. The fluidis exhausted from the left hand side of the piston 49 across theconnections 224 and 222 whence it returns to the sump through the valvesI36 and I'll).

During lateral feed the fluid pressure from the pump I'i first moves thepiston 59 in the lateral feed motor 58 in the direction of the arrowupwardly as shown, from approximately a midposition in the stroke toimpart the lateral component of the travel of the needle from C to D.Thereafter direction of lateral feed is reversed twice, first, to impartthe lateral feed component of the travel of the needle from D through Eto F, and again to impart lateral component during its travel from Fback to C, and the buttonhole eye lateral feed is finished in thedirection of the arrow. For this purpose, fluid pressure is fed from thepump I? through the valve I30 and thence to the solenoid operated valve238, across the connections 23I and 234 and under the piston 59 asshown, the lateral feed control solenoid 235 being deenergized. Fluid isexhausted from above the piston 59 through a check valve 385 thenceacross the connections 233 and 232 through the valves I38 and Ill] andback to the sump. When the solenoid 235 is energized the flow isreversed through the valve 230 and pressure is exerted above the piston59 to drive it opposite the arrow. The fluid pressure then crosses theconnections 23I and 233 from whence it passes through the lateral feedmetering valve I88 across its connections I84 and I85 and to the top ofthe piston 59. The fluid is exhausted from under the piston 59 whence itreturns through the valve 238 across the connections 234 and 232 to thesump I8, in the usual manner. Reversal of the valve 238 again reversesmovement of the piston 59 and moves it to its original midposition inthe direction of the arrow.

The turrets I9 and 22 of the stitching mechanisms II and I5 commence torotate for stitching around the circular portion DEF of the buttonholeeye when the solenoid 245 controlling the valve 246 is energized to movethe piston I8 in the turret drive fluid motor ID to the left as shown.For this purpose the fluid pressure from the pump I'I flows through thevalve I38 thence through an adjusting needle valve 386 and then to thesolenoid operated control valve 248 across its connections MI and 244and to the right of the piston 8. The fluid is exhausted from the leftside of the piston I8 across the connections 243 and 242 thence back tothe sump I8 in the usual manner. When the turret control solenoid 245 isdeenergized when the stitching mechanisms II and I5 return to their homeposition the fluid pressure from the pump then flows through the controlvalve 248 across the connections 2M and 243 to the left of the piston I8to return it to the right. The fluid exhausts from its right hand sideand crosses the connections 244 and 242 to the sump I8.

A manual pump 396 is provided for feeding fluid pressure from the sumpI8 by hand through a check valve 35H for adjusting and positioning themachine.

Operation of the machine The main switch 362 (Fig. 23) is closed tostart the motor I6 which rotates the drive pulley and the pump I'I.Material in which a buttonhole is to be formed is placed under the workclamp 26. The starting handle 282 on the top of the bed plate II) whichactuates the arm 28I' of the clamping switch 288 is then depressed andthe clamping solenoid 286 is energized. Fluid pressure moves theclamping piston 68 and piston rod 62 to the right as viewed in Figs. 3and 22, clamping the work clamp 26 down upon material which has beenplaced thereunder.

At the end of the clamping stroke of the piston rod 62 the cam 382 (Fig.6) moves down to actuate the arm SUI of the cutting switch 300 and thecutting solenoid 2I6 is energized. Fluid pressure enters the fluid motorBI] through the valve 2m to the left of the piston 69 (as viewed in Fig.22 or under it as viewed in Fig. 3 and Fig. 6) to move the piston rod 8|to the right or up, which actuates the cutter 38 to cut a buttonhole inthe material. As the piston 8| moves up the bell crank arm 82 movescounterclockwise (Fig. 6), and at the end of its movement and after thebuttonhole is cut the shoe 3I2 actuates the arm 3 of the cutter switch3H? and deenergizes the cutter solenoid 2I8 reversing the direction offluid pressure flow in the cutter motor 80 which retracts the cutter 36.When the cutter 30 is fully retracted and the bell crank arm 82 is movedback all the way to its original position to the right the cam 322engages the arm 32I of the switch 326 which energizes the longitudinalfeed solenoid 225. Up until this point the needle I3 has remained in itshome position A, (Fig. 1) and with the solenoid 225 denergized, fluidpressure to the longitudinal feed motor was exerted on the right handside of the longitudinal feed piston 48 to maintain the stitchingmechanisms in home position. However, when the switch 32!] is actuatedat the end of the cutting cycle to energize the solenoid 225, the fluidflow is reversed and now flows to the left side of the piston 43commencing straight longitudinal feed. At this time the rotor I3I of theintermittent valve I38 remains in a stationary valve open position andthe unit comprising the housings I2 and I4 supporting the stitchingmechanisms II and I5 feed rapidly to the right relative to the bed plateIt and the material under the work clamp 26 and move the needle from Ato B. When the needle I3 reaches adjustable position B, the stopmechanism 2| is released and the pulley 28 is engaged to drive thestitching mechanisms II and I5 and sewing commences. The rotor I3I ofthe intermittent valve I38 also commences to rotate at this time andthereupon fluid pressure from the pump I7 and fluid exhausting to thesump I8 passes intermittently through the valve I38 imparting astep-by-step positively controlled longitudinal feed to the piston 48 inthe motor 48 for stitching. The stitching mechanisms II and I5 progressin a straight line from B to C, along one edge of the buttonhole. Thelength of the stitching steps is pie-adjusted by the valve I'm.

When the needle I3 reaches C it commences to sew around the buttonholeeye 4 toward D. At this time the guide roll I05 has reached point T atthe rear end of the groove I06 (Fig. 2). When it leaves the groove I06the fluid pressure which has been continuously exerted from the start ofthe operative cycle in the direction of the arrow against the piston 59in the lateral feed motor 58 now takes effect and the unit of thehousings I2 and I4 supporting the needle I3 can rotate around the pivotI8I providing the lateral component to feed the needle I3 along theportion of the buttonhole eye from C to D. As the needle I3 moves alongthe path from C to D the guide roll 105 which has left the slot I06 atpoint T travels along the line between T and U in a path correspondingto the first part of the eye in the buttonhole C-D. During this timelateral feed is, of course, intermittent as well as longitudinal feed,both being controlled by rotation of the intermittent valve I30. Whenthe needle I3 reaches D and the guide roll I05 reaches U the set screw352 (Fig. 7) actuates the arm 3 of the switch 340, energizing thelateral feed control solenoid 235. The fluid pressure flow is reversedin the lateral feed motor 50 and now enters above the piston 59 throughthe lateral feed metering valve I80 which at this time is partiallyclosed and the direction of lateral feed is reversed in order to causethe needle 53 to travel between the points D, E and F while the guideroll I05 follows a path between the points U, 'V and W. At the same timethe set screw 352, (Fig. '7) actuates the arm 35I in the turret rotationcontrol switch 360 which energizes the turret control solenoid 245. Thefluid pressure flow in the turret drive motor I is then reversed andenters to the right of the piston I8 (Fig. 22) moving the rack 13 to theleft and intermittently rotating the turrets I9 and 22 to position theneedle I3 as it sews around the circular portion DEF of the buttonholeeye 4. When the needle I3 reaches E the roller I reaches V, and at thattime it is necessary to reverse the direction of longitudinal feed backtoward home position. For this purpose the set screw 333 (Fig. '7)actuates the arm 332 of the longitudinal feed. reversing switch 330which deenergizes the solenoid 225 and reverses the direction of fluidpressure flow in the fluid motor 40. Pressure then enters to the rightof the piston 19 and moves the unit comprising the housings I2 and M tothe left toward the home position. The needle I3 moves from E to F andthe roller I05 fromV to W. The set screw 352 (Fig. 7) then actuates thearm 35I of the lateral feed reversing switch 350, and the direction oflateral feed of the motor 50 is again reversed to its original directionindicated by the arrow. The needle I3 then moves from F to C and theroller I05 moves from W back to T where it again enters the groove I35,Figs. 2 and 7. When the roller I05 is in the groove I06 no furtherlateral feed can take place, although pressure continues to be exertedin the lateral feed fluid motor 50. From then on to the completion ofthe cycle only the longitudinal feed motor 50 is effective and theneedle I3 feeds back in a straight line from C to B. When the needle isat B the stop mechanism 2| is engaged and the stitching mechanisms IIand I5 and the intermittent valve rotor I3I are disengaged from thedriving pulley 20 and stop, whereupon sewing ceases. Thev longitudinalfeed motor 40 continues to move the needle back to home position from Bto A in direct feed with the intermittent valve rotor I3I in theoriginal open position.

When the needle is travelling around the circular portion DEF of thebuttonhole eye 4 it will be recalled that it must be fed laterallyv inincreasing increments l as it moves from D to E and in decreasingincrements between E and F. During this time the piston 59 of thelateral feed motor 50, (Fig. 22) is traveling in a direction opposite tothat of the arrow and fluid pressure is admitted above the piston 50through the metering valve I00 which, as has been explained, is normallyalmost closed for slow lateral feed when its arm- 338 is on the lowportion ofthe cam I90. As the needle I3 proceeds from D to E the turretactuating rack I3 is also moving to the left to rotate the turrets I9and 22 around the circular portion of the eye DEF and the cam I90 movesunder the roll I58 on the valve arm I 8'! gradually to open the valve Ito a maximum when the high point of the cam I passes under the roll I88just as the needle I3 reaches As the needle travels on from E to F thecam I90 continues on under the roll I88 until the latter reaches theopposite low point of the cam and diminishing the increments I oflateral feed as the needle approaches point F.

When the needle travelled from C to D and back from F to C the lateralfeed was at a constant rate and the metering valve I35 was not in thefluid supply line being by-passed through the check valve 385.

The rate of longitudinal intermittent feed while the needle I3 istravelling from B through C to D remains constant. From D to E as theneedle approaches its extreme of longitudinal feed at E the increments 6must be in decreasing amounts for each step.

For this purpose as the needle I3 approaches E the cam I59 on the rack13 moves under the roll I58 on the arm I5? of the longitudinal meteringvalve I50 to close, the valve as the needle I3 approaches E. When theneedle I3 is at E the high point of the cam .I59 is under the roll I58.As the needle I3 moves from E to F the longitudinal increments 6 of feedare'gradually in- I creased for each step after its direction isreversed at E and the cam I59 continues on past the roll I53 to open thevalve I50 for maximum incre ments of feed as the needle passes F andstarts back toward B at which point sewing is completed.

It will thus be seen that by timing the passage of the cams I55 and I90operatively with respect to the metering valves I50 and I80 the rate ofintermittent progress of the longitudinal feed motor 40 and of thelateral feed motor 50 can be adjusted to cause the needle I3 to travelaround the buttonhole eye 0.

The movement of the turret actuating motor is commenced when the needlewas at D and was completed when it reached F and the turrets I9 and 22remain in the reversed position all during the travel of the needle fromF back to its home position at A. When the machine reaches home positionA the bracket 292 (Fig. '7) actuates the arm 3' of the turret reversingswitch 3H} and the solenoid 245 is deenergized reversing the directionof fluid pressure flow in the motor l0 which returns the piston I8 andrack 3 to the original position to the right. At the same time thebracket 292 actuates the arm 23H of the clamping control switch 290 anddeenergizes the clamping solenoid 205. The clamping motor St is reversedand the work clamp 20 is retracted from the material which may then bemoved from the machine.

I claim:

l. A. stitching machine having in combination stitching mechanism and awork clamp movable relatively to each other to form stitches in workwhich has been placed in the work clamp, a fluid pressure operated motorconnected to one of said parts to produce said movement and a valvecontrolling the flow of fluid under pressure which operates said motor.

2. A stitching machine having in combination stitching mechanism and awork clamp movable relatively to each other to form stitches in work 7.5which has been placed in the work clamp,

